Tools Every DIY Mechanic Should Have

In this article, we’ll cover the Tools Every DIY Mechanic Should Have! If you’re thinking about working on your own car, you’re going to need quite a few tools! Being a mechanic and buying tools is a never ending process, so you’ll be seeing your collection grow continually over the years. These suggestions will get you off to a great start!

Why should you trust me? I spend 40+ hours a week working on cars. It’s how I make my living, so you could say I have some experience in the field. My dad is also a mechanic, and owns his own automotive shop, so it kind of runs in the family!

A Toolbox – Whether it’s a small tool bag, or a massive rolling cabinet, you’ll need a place to put your Flat washers! Every DIY Mechanic should have a tool box or tool bag. Larger boxes allow room for more tools, and better tool organization options, while smaller boxes are easier to move to where you’ll need them. Your needs will most likely dictate which one is right for you.

GearWrench 80550FRatchets and Sockets – Of all the Tools Every DIY Mechanic Should Have, these will probably get used the most! A good set of ratchets and sockets will be a life saver when it comes to working on your car. I suggest avoiding the large tool sets offered by major retailers (you know, the ones advertised as 200, 300, or even 400 piece mechanic’s tool sets). These usually contain many tools you don’t need, and will likely never use! Instead, purchase what you need, when you need it. You’ll save money, and have a much higher quality tool collection if you do. The GearWrench 80550F (pictured) will give you most of the basic sockets you’ll need in both 1/4 and 3/8 drive sizes, as well as a few bonus items!

Flex Head RatchetsLong Handled / Flex Head Ratchets – If you add a set of long handled flex head ratchets to the GearWrench set mentioned above, there won’t be much you can’t get done! The long handles allow you to generate more torque for large or rusted nuts and bolts. The flex heads allow you to squeeze them into more places at different angles, which wouldn’t be possible with a regular ratchet. The Pittsburgh Pro ratchets found at Harbor Freight (pictured) work great, and are a solid value.



WrenchesWrenches – Wrenches are good to have, as you won’t always be able to fit a ratchet and socket where you need to, and sometimes you’ll need a wrench to hold one end of a fastener while you loosen or tighten the other end with a ratchet. Combination wrenches are a great place to start, but if you have the budget a set of flex head ratcheting wrenches are indispensable. Line wrenches are a great thing to have as well, since a standard wrench won’t usually work on fuel, brake, or air conditioning lines.



Ratcheting ScrewdriverScrewdrivers – You’ll probably need to remove some screws at some point, and you’ll need an assortment of screwdrivers to do it! A set of standard screwdrivers is a great start, but if you want to make your life easier, go for a ratcheting model with interchangeable bits (pictured), or even a cordless 1/4in hex impact driver! The ratcheting screwdriver and bits is relatively inexpensive, but saves some time. The cordless impact driver is a little spendy, but offers a lot of versatility. With a couple socket adapters, you can even use it to remove nuts and bolts!



Assorted Pliers – No list of Tools Every DIY Mechanic Should Have would be complete without them. You’ll need an assortment of pliers for squeezing, pinching, and pulling on things. Nothing too fancy is required, a basic pliers set like the ones made by Channelock are a great choice, and adding a basic set of “Vise-grip” style pliers isn’t a bad idea. Lastly, a set of oil filter pliers (also made by Channelock, and others) will help you remove any stubborn oil filters you encounter.

Ball Peen Hammers – Mechanics usually don’t like to admit it, but sometimes the answer really is “smack it with a hammer!” Specifically, a ball peen hammer. They come in different weights, so you’ll probably at least want a small one for more delicate tasks, and a large one for removing brake drums and other parts that need more “persuasion”.

Oil Drain Pan & Funnel – Odds are your first foray into working on your own car will be an oil change, and you’ll need somewhere to put the old oil. An oil drain pan is exactly the thing you’ll want to have! A funnel comes in handy for both disposing of the old oil, and filling your car with new oil!

Floor Jack & Jack Stands – you’ll probably need to raise the wheels of your car off the ground at some point, maybe to rotate your tires during that oil change we mentioned? To do this, you’ll need a floor jack rated for your car’s weight, and an equally rated set of jack stands! The 3 Ton Daytona Professional Steel Floor Jack from harbor freight is a great choice, and you can pick up a matching set of jack stands while you’re there!

Shop Rags and Hand Cleaner – OK, these may not be tools per-se, but you’ll thank me when you need them!

If you know of more Tools Every DIY Mechanic Should Have, feel free to list them off by leaving a comment below!

Vessel Megadora 980 Impacta

If you own or work on anything Japanese, you may want to give this Vessel Megadora 980 Impacta a look! A Japanese Phillips screwdriver has very few visual differences in comparison to an American Phillips screwdriver, but in use the differences are obvious!

First off, I’d just like to say that having a JIS Screwdriver period is a godsend if you work on Japanese cars or motorcycles. This particular JIS screwdriver / Impact Tool, however, is doubly awesome.

The JIS screws are usually — but not always — identified by an upraised or recessed dot on the head, or the fact that they are completely gored out and will only come off with a set of Vise-Grips.

If you’ve ever rebuilt a Japanese carburetor, say on a japanese motorcycle or scooter, you probably remember having a hard time removing the float bowl screws. (meaning you probably stripped at least a couple.) The Vessel Megadora 980 Impacta makes quick work of these, and any other JIS screws you can find!

Note that a JIS screwdriver will usually work on both a Phillips head and JIS screw, while a Phillips head will usually work only on a Phillips head screw. What this means is if you have a good set of JIS screwdrivers in your toolbox or tool cart, you don’t even need the standard Phillips set anymore!

If that doesn’t sound cool enough for you, the Impacta part of the name means that you can use this as an impact driver. The impact feature is amazing when it comes to breaking loose rusted, oxidized, or otherwise stuck screws, and when you’re not using it as an impact driver, it works well as just a standard screwdriver. This saves time, as you don’t have to get out your standard hand impact tool and bits, as well as a normal screwdriver. the Vessel Megadora 980 Impacta does both, in one handy package!

If this Vessel Megadora 980 Impacta review hasn’t sold you on the tool’s merits, I don’t know what will!


After reading this guide on How to Change Your Car’s Air Filter, you’ll be able to save yourself some money by changing your car’s air filter yourself. This will only take a minute or two to complete, and costs as little as $10.

Tools required:

First, you’ll need to find out what kind of filter your car needs, then purchase one. You can do this at an auto parts store, or you can use this link to purchase one online.

Many cars don’t require any tools at all, but having a basic set of screwdrivers handy wouldn’t hurt. I used this Williams Ratcheting Screwdriver to change air filters for many years, and it has several bits concealed in the handle, so you always have the right one.

How to Change Your Car’s Air Filter

Step 1: Park your car somewhere you can walk freely around the front. Make sure the car is in the park position, and put the emergency brake on if you’re on an incline. Pull the hood release and exit the car.

Step 2: Open the hood and secure it. Most cars have a hood support bar built in, but some rely on struts or springs to secure the hood.

Step 3: Locate your car’s air box. The air box is typically a black plastic case near the top of the engine. It’s about the size of a loaf of bread and should be the only plastic case attached to the top of your car’s engine.

Step 4: Open the airbox and remove the old air filter. This is where you may need a screwdriver.

Step 5: Insert the new air filter and close up the airbox.

Step 6: Close the hood.

You’re done! Feel free to give yourself a pat on the back at this point, because you’ve just performed your first air filter change!

auto mechanic at car suspension repair work

Visiting the Mechanic to some people is right up there with a visit to the dentist when it comes to things you dread doing, but it doesn’t have to be. To make things even more stressful, many people know little about how their car works, so they just see their trip to the mechanic as a baffling and costly experience, with little understanding of what you’re really paying for. These 10 Tips for Visiting the Mechanic will make things easier for you the next time you stop by a garage.

Tip 1: Plan Your Visit to the Mechanic Ahead of Time.

Finding a mechanic when your car is in desperate need of repair just adds more stress to the equation. Instead, shop around before you really need any work done. Visit the mechanics near you to get a quote for something basic – let’s say an oil change, tire rotation, air filter, and cabin filter.

If possible, pay your visit mid-day during the week. When you get there, take a look around the parking lot. Are there other cars around? Does the shop look busy? Are the vehicles there comparable to your own? If you can answer yes to at least some of these, it’s a good sign you’re in the right place. When you walk in, take a look around the lobby. Is it fairly clean? Are there awards or certifications on the walls? Is there a reasonably sized waiting area? Again, if you can answer yes to these questions, you’ve likely found a good shop. Talk to the service personnel that are there, and get your quote. If the people you’ve talked to have left a positive impression upon you, and the things you’ve observed check out, add the shop to your list of possibilities and continue to the next one.

Tip 2: Do some research.

Do what you can to learn about your car, how to check your own oil, transmission fluid, air filter, cabin air filter, brake fluid, power steering fluid, brake pads, etc. These items are common up-sells (Services that the garage will often recommend when you stop in for an oil change, for example) and knowing the condition of each ahead of time will help you feel more confident that you and your wallet aren’t being taken for a ride.

Tip 3: Ask to see what they’re talking about.

When your mechanic of choice tells you that a part or fluid needs to be replaced, ask to see what they mean. Most shops will happily walk with you over to where your car is being worked on and explain the problem to you at length. If they are not willing to do this, it is a sign you may want to find another mechanic. If it is a fluid flush that they are recommending, ask them to show you a sample from your car vs a new sample. You can often see the difference quite easily. Brake fluid i s a great example of this, new brake fluid is typically clear or champagne colored. Old, bad brake fluid can range from honey-colored to black. Check out the picture below to see what I mean.


Tip 4: Tip your mechanic.

Once you’ve chosen to go ahead with any repairs, If possible, ask to speak with the mechanic working on your vehicle directly. When you do, give them a small tip. Even just enough to buy a soda or something will help. Mechanics have a tendency to feel overworked and underpaid (look up how a mechanic gets paid to see what I mean), and due to the nature of the job, some of them tend to see each job as another task to complete rather than a real person’s car. Speaking directly with the mechanic will remind them that you are, in fact, a real person, and the tip will give them added incentive to treat your car accordingly.

Tip 5: Ask to see your the parts.

When you have parts replaced, ask to see the old ones when you pick up your car. This will help to verify that the work was actually done, and the part was actually bad. Also ask to see the box or packaging from the new parts if possible. This will tell you if you’re getting good, brand name parts, or cheaper chinese parts with no real brand. If you were quoted for a name brand but actually received a cheaper part, you’ll want to try and get that worked out before you pay your bill.

Tip 6: Double-check your car before you leave.

After the bill is paid, give your car a once over before you drive off. When you get an oil change, look under your car to verify that the technician cleaned up any oil spills and tightened the drain plug / oil filter appropriately. If you get brakes or tires, make sure that your wheels have all the lug nuts attached, the center caps or hub caps are in place. Always verify that there aren’t any fluid leaks present. Open the hood and make sure that all caps, covers, etc. are in place. If something doesn’t check out, politely ask someone at the front desk to take a look at it with you. A good shop should make things right if or when a mistake happens.

Zippo Armor Lighter

The Zippo Armor High Polish Brass Lighter is a  line of Zippo lighters that possess a thicker, more robust case that is less prone to denting when dropped or during pocket carry. The thickness of the case is about 1.5 times thicker than in a standard Zippo. This lends itself well to being an EDC lighter for heavy use. For those who are wondering, I measured a fueled regular brass Zippo at 60 grams, a bit over 2 ounces, and the Armor at 70 grams, about 1/3 ounce heavier.

The polished brazz Zippo Armor lighter ships with a protective coating that keeps it from tarnishing… for a little while at least. After that, it will begin to develop a patina, which in my opinion simply adds to it’s charm.

Zippos are of very good quality. They are made from nice, thick metal, and are robust although they will get scratched to pieces if left in a pocket with keys, but that’s to be expected really! The lid snaps shut with a very satisfying ‘click’, and there are no gaps between the lid and the body of the lighter. The Zippo is something you’ll buy once and probably never need to replace! Replacement flints and wicks are readily available and cheap, as is additional zippo fuel.


In this guide, you’ll learn How to Clean Car Wheels safely and properly! Cleaning the wheels on your car is an important step of any car detailing process. Dirty wheels will detract from even the most clean, polished ride otherwise. Don’t let your wheels look like the ones pictured above, and make cleaning them properly a goal with every car wash!

How to Clean Car Wheels Step 1: Get a brush (if necessary).

A wheel brush isn’t needed to clean all car rims, but if your wheels have a lot of spokes, crevices, lug nut wells, or other areas brake dust and road grime can collect and get hard to reach, you might find one of these to be a real time saver! My personal favorite is the SpeedMaster bundle (pictured below), as it provides not only a wheel brush, but some extra accessories to clean car tires as well! And best of all, it’s only about $1 more expensive than the wheel brush alone!

How to Clean Car Wheels Step 2: Use the best wheel cleaner!

OK, so here’s the deal with wheel cleaner: You can get away without it, but it’s kind of like saying you don’t actually need a car. Sure, you could probably get by without one, but it wouldn’t be very easy! And just like your car, if you’re going to invest in a wheel cleaner, you might as well make sure you get a good one! Sonax wheel cleaner, pictured below, is one of the best I’ve found. It works with an acid-free formula that won’t damage any wheel, clear-coated or otherwise.

How to Clean Car Wheels Step 3: clean those wheels!

OK, the key here is to make sure your wheels are cool to the touch, and dry. If you’ve driven your vehicle recently, let it sit awhile so those wheels and brakes have time to cool off. If possible, have your car in the shade for this process, as it will help keep both you and your wheels cooler. The first step when you’re ready to get down to it is to spray on your wheel cleaner of choice, making sure to coat each wheel evenly. Also make sure you spray as many of those hard to reach areas as you can. Give the cleaner 2-3 minutes to work, and scrub everything down with a wheel brush if you have one. If not, skip that step and move on. Next, wait a few more minutes for the cleaner to do it’s work, then rinse everything off with a high pressure water source like a hose sprayer, pressure washer, or whatever you’ve got handy. Finally, dry everything off with a clean microfiber towel to ensure that you don’t get any water spots. Those can really detract from all of the effort you’re putting in here!

Optional Bonus: Wheel Sealer

Well, now your wheels are nice and clean. Wanna keep ’em that way? Sure you do! The easiest way I’ve found to do that is using a wheel sealant. This protective coating blocks out brake dust and all other contaminants so you don’t have to continuously clean your wheels to keep them in great shape. Check the link below to learn more!

Have your own tips on How to Clean Car Wheels? Join the conversation below!


If you want to learn How to Clean Car Windows, you’re in the right place! In this article, I’ll teach you the best way I’ve found to clean car windows, windshields, and glass in general over the years. When you’re detailing your vehicle, the glass should be the last thing you do to avoid re-contaminating it during the detailing process. So if you haven’t already washed and waxed your vehicle, now’s the time!

How to Clean Car Windows – Step 1: Prep Work

Make sure your auto glass is completely dry and free of debris, leaves, stuck-on sap, etc. If your windows are really grimy at this point, you’ll probably want to wash your car if you haven’t already. A little dust, water spots, and that sort of thing are just fine though, we’ll take care of those here.

How to Clean Car Windows – Step 2: Selecting a cleaner

Make sure you’re using a safe, high quality cleaner. Avoid household glass cleaners, which almost all contain ammonia. Ammonia can release dangerous fumes that should not be inhaled, especially in enclosed areas like the inside of your vehicle. Chemically, ammonia acts to dry out plastic, rubber, vinyl, and leather. For these reasons, you don’t want it anywhere near your car.

Instead, pick a glass cleaner designed for automotive use. For the inside portion of tinted windows (where the tinting film is), the best cleaner I’ve ever used is Detailer’s Pro Series Plex-All. For the exterior glass, I typically use a hydrophobic (rain-repelling) glass sealer after cleaning, which helps keep the glass clean and water-spot free during future washing, and allows rain to bead up and roll off during storms, so you don’t suffer as much of a visibility hit.

How to Clean Car Windows – Step 3: Using the Right Applicator

Always use a lint-free towel or microfiber cloth when cleaning your car’s windows. Trust me, it helps! Another trick is to use vertical motions on the exterior glass, and horizontal motions on the interior glass. That way, if you get streaks, you know which side they’re on, making it easier to get rid of them! Also, be sure to mist the cleaner on the cloth itself, rather than directly on the window. This helps prevent over-spray from getting where it’s not needed, like on your paint or interior plastics, leather, etc. If you have a windshield or rear window with especially hard to reach areas, consider investing in a glass cleaning tool like the one shown below!

How to Clean Car Windows – Step 4: Final Detailing

If you have small scratches or stubborn water spots on your glass, consider using a glass restorer like the one shown below in combination with an orbital polisher to remove them! This stuff works like a buffing compound, but is formulated specifically for automotive glass! It removes haziness, swirling, light scratches, and other imperfections to restore perfect clarity to your windshield and other windows.

How to Clean Car Tires

If your tires are looking a bit grungy, read on and learn how to clean car tires the best way possible! This is a method used by several professional detailers I know, and it will leave your tires looking clean and black every time!

Step 1: Use a good cleaner!

If you want to clean your car tires and end up with a great result every time, it may seem obvious that you’ll need to use something to clean them. A solid cleaning product really makes your job easier here, so don’t skimp! I’ve tried everything from soap to simple green and specialty tire cleaners, and what I’ve found to work the best all-around is BlackFire Total Eclipse Tire & Wheel Cleaner.

At around $1 per ounce, it’s a bit spendy, but the results are worth the investment! Best of all, it is 100% water-based and free of the acids and other chemicals found in the tire cleaners you’d typically find at your local AutoZone, Checker, or other auto parts store. Even if you aren’t on the “green” bandwagon, these chemicals can actually harm your tires and wheels over time. Just don’t do it! Spray whatever cleaner you end up using on your tires liberally, wait a minute or two, and move on to step 2!

Step 2: Scrub man, scrub!

Sure, many cleaners say to just spray on and rinse, but trust me, if you’re learning How to Clean Car Tires, you’re gonna want to get out your scrub brush and go to town! The results you’ll get if you do are many times better than if you’d just rinsed the cleaner off after letting it sit for a few minutes. I suggest using a specialty tire brish, as the curves in the brush conform to the sidewalls of most tires and make the job easier, but realistically you can use just about anything. An old toothbrush, a dish scrub brush, a broom, whatever’s around!

Step 3: Rinse & Dry!

OK, you probably knew this was coming next, but hey, if I didn’t mention it someone would probably point it out eventually. Spray your tires down with clean water, making sure all of the cleaner foam, brake dust, and whatever else gets completely rinsed away!

When that’s done, grab a microfiber towel, lint-free cloth, or air nozzle, and dry your nice, clean tires off! Make sure you get all the cracks and crevices as dry as you possibly can, because any remaining water droplets will play hell with our next step.

Step 4: Tire Dressing

The final step to cleaning your car tires is dressing, which will make those tires extra-black, and possibly shiny depending on the product & application methods you use. You can use the basic ArmorAll or HotShine tire spray if that’s your thing, but personally I hate the oily slime they leave behind. My personal favorite tire dressing is the ArmorAll Outlast tire dressing, which comes in an aerosol can. You’ll most likely want to mask off your wheels if you plan on using the stuff, because it’s sort of like a spray-on rubber coating. Trust me, if you get any over-spray on your wheels, it’s a royal PITA to get it back off again. Whatever product you end up using, just follow the directions on the bottle or can and make sure to get a nice, even coating over the entire side of the tire. Avoid the tread areas, and your wheels as much as possible.

This guide will teach you How to Paint Plastic Interior Parts properly! If you want to customize your car or truck, this is a great way to start. If you have mismatched plastics from junkyard replacements or whatever, Painting Plastic Interior Parts is a great way to remedy that as well!

A Word on Paint

If you’re somewhat skeptical about painting plastic interior parts, it’s probably because you’ve seen a lot of failed attempts. A lot of those failed attempts are due to either rushing the job, or using paint that wasn’t up to the task. If you’re trying to keep the factory textured look to your plastics, I suggest using SEM Flexible Coatings. Specifically, SEM Sand-free primer, and the SEM paint color of your choice. If you want a smoothed, high-gloss finish to your plastics, I suggest using automotive grade paint. Not the stuff you buy at Home Depot or Auto Zone, but the stuff from an automotive paint supplier. Trust me, it will make a world of difference when you Paint Plastic Interior Parts.

Step 1: Removal

Remove the parts you want to paint from the car, and find a suitable place to paint them. You’ll most likely want to raise your parts off of the ground, so a workbench or table covered in painter’s plastic works well for smaller parts and trim pieces. For large parts like dashes and door panels, you may have to get creative with a couple sawhorses, cardboard boxes, or whatever you can manage. It will be awhile before you actually spray any paint, but it helps to get things ready beforehand.

Step 2: Cleaning

The first thing you’ll want to do is some serious cleaning. Interior parts are most likely going to have years worth of ArmorAll and other oily, waxy dressings all over them. If you want to have a snowball’s chance of your paint job turning out well, don’t rush this step! Scrub your parts down withsoap and water. Dish soap should work well, but if you’re not on a shoestring budget, SEM 39362 Soap – 15 oz. is specifically for this task. No matter which soap you use, make sure to rinse everything off thoroughly when you’re done. If the part still looks or feels dirty, go over it with soap another time or two. If you want to go the extra mile and be SURE those parts are clean enough for paint, I suggest using SEM 38353 Plastic Prep – 12 oz.. It’s a plastic cleaner made specifically for pre-paint cleaning.

Step 3: Deciding on Finish

From here there will be 2 separate paths. One path for the guys who want to keep the factory ‘textured’ look to their plastics, and one path for the guys who want their interior as smooth and shiny as their exterior paint. If you’re in the “factory look” camp, read on! If you’re in the “smooth and shiny” camp, skip down to that section!

Factory “Textured” Look

So you’ve decided to keep a factory “textured” look to your interior. Cool! The good news is, you don’t have to do any sanding! The bad news is you’ll need a Sand-Free Adhesion Promoter to get your paint to stick effectively. Once the parts you want to paint are clean and dry, shoot them with the can of sand-free making sure to start the spray off of the part, and move across it one section at a time. Make sure the end of your spray is off of the part. So, for example, start your spray off to the left of your part, move your can to the right across your part, and end your spray to the right of your part. Keep bursting your way through it untill you’ve covered the whole part, making sure you got all of the cracks and crevices. Once you’ve got that covered, switch to your color of choice and shoot that over top of the still-wet adhesion promoter (assuming you’re using SEM). If not, follow the directions on the can(s) you are actually using.

Custom “Smooth and Shiny” Look

So you’ve decided to impart some custom style to your ride? Great! The good news is, you’ll have a pretty unique interior when it’s all said and done. The bad news is, it’s gonna be quite a bit of work. But hey, if it was easy everyone would do it, right?

Step 4: Sanding

Yep, you’re gonna be doing a lot of sanding. Hopefully you have a small power sander handy, since they can be a real time saver in this step. Start off with a sand paper grit around 200 and sand down any texture, lettering, etc. on the interior pieces you intend to paint. You’ll want to sand across (perpendicular to) any major curves in the pieces, because if you sand with (follow) them, you risk flattening out the profile, which will probably be noticeable. Once most of the texture and whatever else is gone, switch to a finer grit like 400, and keep the part (and your sandpaper) wet while sanding. The goal here is to both finish removing the texture, and also remove the marks left by your 200 grit. Once that’s done, move on!

Step 5: Primer

Primer is what we will use to fill in some uneven spots, sanding marks, and whatever else is left at this point so our color coat will come out smooth and mirror-like. Note: Whenever you’re spraying anything, make sure you begin and end your passes off of the part, or else you’ll end up with runs galore. First, shoot everything with a plastic adhesion promoter. This will make sure that the primer fully bonds with the plastic. After that, spray on a light coat of filler primer or high build primer. This is what fills in those sanding marks and whatnot. Wait 24 hours (or however long is recommended on your can of primer) and spray another light coat on. If everything is even and uniform at this point, move on! If not, keep reading. If you get runs in the primer or stippling, you will have to wait till the primer dries, and wet-sand those specific spots down with some 600 grit. Be careful not to sand all the way through the primer if you end up doing this. Once that sanding is done, spray a new light layer of primer over everything and pat yourself on the back.

Step 6: Color

Now it’s time to spray on your color. Remember the note in the last step? Good! Start spraying that sucker (or those suckers) with your color of choice. Make sure you get a good, solid coat without any big runs or high spots.

Step 7: Clear

Clear Coat is what will protect your base color from chips and wear in general. Just like with your color, your goal is to get a good, solid layer of clear down with as few runs or high spots as possible. If you get some at this point, don’t stress out about it. We’ll fix those next. Wait 24 hours (or however long the can recommends) and spray another layer.

Step 8: Color Sanding

If your clear coat is less than perfect, you’ll be doing what is known as color sanding. Basically, it’s a process of removing any and all imperfections so you’re left with a mirror-like shine. Your clear coat will need to be TOTALLY dry before proceeding. Get a bucket of water and add 1 drop of dish soap to it. Now get some 600 grit sandpaper and a sanding pad. Wet your sandpaper and LIGHTLY sand your clear coat, making sure to re-wet your sandpaper as often as is needed. You’ll want to use no pressure here, just let the sand paper do the work and DO NOT sand all the way through the clear coat. After sanding an area, wipe it down with a clean, dry towel to check for high spots. Use an air nozzle to help dry if necessary. After the surface is dry, if you have high spots, which show as the dull areas and low spots which show as the darker or unsanded areas, this is what they’ll look like. Once the imperfections in your clearcoat are pretty much gone and everything is pretty close to even, jump up to 2000 grit and sand with that untill you’ve removed the marks from the 600 grit and evened everything up. Once you’re left with just 2000 grit marks, buff that sucker out by hand to remove those, and congratulate yourself on a job well done! Now you know How to Paint Plastic Interior Parts, and you can share with your friends!

Have tips of your own for paint plastic interior parts? Feel free to share ’em below!

Most of you already know that link building is an important step of any SEO campaign. With any luck, these SEO Link Building Tips will help you get more out of your efforts! The SEO game has changed a lot over the last couple of years, and the tools of the trade have changed just as much! No matter what, though, link building will always play it’s part in getting ranked for any keyword.

Link building has changed, too. A few years ago, one could easily buy their way to the top of the search results. Black or Gray-Hat link building was an easy way to do just as well on a smaller budget. These days, building links isn’t nearly as fast or as easy as it was then, and a lot more weight is placed on link quality over quantity. There are still many white hat SEO techniques you can start using right now, without much effort or expense.

Ask for Backlinks!

Contact your friends, family, co-workers, and anyone else you can think of and simply ask them to link to you. Be sure to ask for in-content links rather than links in the sidebar, footer, or blogroll. Be careful to ensure that the links are coming from content-relevant websites, though. Links from completely unrelated websites will not help, and may even hurt your rankings.

Tap Social Media

Social Media backlinks are gaining more and more weight with google, and social media link building may soon eclipse all other link building strategies. Reddit and StumbleUpon take just a few seconds to submit to, and reddit in particular is a potential gold mine if your link takes off! Creating a Facebook page for your brand or product is another solid option, because pretty much everyone spends time browsing through it’s pages these days.

Build Relationships

Forums, Blogs, and Social Groups related to your niche are a great way to make friends, and get a few extra back links out there! Make the first step and start contributing good, relevant content to these communities. Begin with the focus of simply building the community itself, and it will pay off. By actively participating in these groups, you’ll meet new people, gain some backlinks, and most likely stay up-to-date with industry news and events while you’re at it!

Give Testimonials

If you’ve used a product or service, and had positive thoughts about it, offer to write a testimonial for their website! These requests typically pay off at a higher rate than just emailing and asking for a backlink, because your testimonial helps the brand in question build customer trust, and your link’s presence within that testimonial gives you a valuable backlink, as well as some extra traffic.

Get Listed in Trusted Web Directories

The days of submitting your link to every directory under the sun are gone. There are too many opportunities to damage your site’s google reputation by doing so. Instead, submit only to trusted web directories like DMOZ. DMOZ is the largest, most comprehensive human-edited directory of the Web. It is constructed and maintained by a vast, global community of volunteer editors. It also carries a lot of weight with search engines, as they have a solid reputation built upon years of work.

Research the Competition

I suggested a similar tactic in my keyword research tips post. This time, it’s a little different though. You’ll be scoping out your competitors’ backlinks! The Common Backlinks Tool from is designed specifically for this purpose. Just enter up to 10 competitors and run the report, and you’ll be able to see where they  have common backlinks, and discover their techniques and sources.

Get SEMRush

If you’ve never used SEMRush, it’s time to start! They have a free option available, as well as a pro option should you need something a little more robust. I can’t stress enough how much SEMRush helps with keyword research, which will help make targeting those links a lot easier!

Share Your Link Building Tips!

Remember what I said about contributing to a community earlier? Feel free to share your own Link Building Tips below, and give yourself a pat on the back-link!