In this guide, you’ll learn How to Clean Car Wheels safely and properly! Cleaning the wheels on your car is an important step of any car detailing process. Dirty wheels will detract from even the most clean, polished ride otherwise. Don’t let your wheels look like the ones pictured above, and make cleaning them properly a goal with every car wash!

How to Clean Car Wheels Step 1: Get a brush (if necessary).

A wheel brush isn’t needed to clean all car rims, but if your wheels have a lot of spokes, crevices, lug nut wells, or other areas brake dust and road grime can collect and get hard to reach, you might find one of these to be a real time saver! My personal favorite is the SpeedMaster bundle (pictured below), as it provides not only a wheel brush, but some extra accessories to clean car tires as well! And best of all, it’s only about $1 more expensive than the wheel brush alone!

How to Clean Car Wheels Step 2: Use the best wheel cleaner!

OK, so here’s the deal with wheel cleaner: You can get away without it, but it’s kind of like saying you don’t actually need a car. Sure, you could probably get by without one, but it wouldn’t be very easy! And just like your car, if you’re going to invest in a wheel cleaner, you might as well make sure you get a good one! Sonax wheel cleaner, pictured below, is one of the best I’ve found. It works with an acid-free formula that won’t damage any wheel, clear-coated or otherwise.

How to Clean Car Wheels Step 3: clean those wheels!

OK, the key here is to make sure your wheels are cool to the touch, and dry. If you’ve driven your vehicle recently, let it sit awhile so those wheels and brakes have time to cool off. If possible, have your car in the shade for this process, as it will help keep both you and your wheels cooler. The first step when you’re ready to get down to it is to spray on your wheel cleaner of choice, making sure to coat each wheel evenly. Also make sure you spray as many of those hard to reach areas as you can. Give the cleaner 2-3 minutes to work, and scrub everything down with a wheel brush if you have one. If not, skip that step and move on. Next, wait a few more minutes for the cleaner to do it’s work, then rinse everything off with a high pressure water source like a hose sprayer, pressure washer, or whatever you’ve got handy. Finally, dry everything off with a clean microfiber towel to ensure that you don’t get any water spots. Those can really detract from all of the effort you’re putting in here!

Optional Bonus: Wheel Sealer

Well, now your wheels are nice and clean. Wanna keep ’em that way? Sure you do! The easiest way I’ve found to do that is using a wheel sealant. This protective coating blocks out brake dust and all other contaminants so you don’t have to continuously clean your wheels to keep them in great shape. Check the link below to learn more!

Have your own tips on How to Clean Car Wheels? Join the conversation below!


If you want to learn How to Clean Car Windows, you’re in the right place! In this article, I’ll teach you the best way I’ve found to clean car windows, windshields, and glass in general over the years. When you’re detailing your vehicle, the glass should be the last thing you do to avoid re-contaminating it during the detailing process. So if you haven’t already washed and waxed your vehicle, now’s the time!

How to Clean Car Windows – Step 1: Prep Work

Make sure your auto glass is completely dry and free of debris, leaves, stuck-on sap, etc. If your windows are really grimy at this point, you’ll probably want to wash your car if you haven’t already. A little dust, water spots, and that sort of thing are just fine though, we’ll take care of those here.

How to Clean Car Windows – Step 2: Selecting a cleaner

Make sure you’re using a safe, high quality cleaner. Avoid household glass cleaners, which almost all contain ammonia. Ammonia can release dangerous fumes that should not be inhaled, especially in enclosed areas like the inside of your vehicle. Chemically, ammonia acts to dry out plastic, rubber, vinyl, and leather. For these reasons, you don’t want it anywhere near your car.

Instead, pick a glass cleaner designed for automotive use. For the inside portion of tinted windows (where the tinting film is), the best cleaner I’ve ever used is Detailer’s Pro Series Plex-All. For the exterior glass, I typically use a hydrophobic (rain-repelling) glass sealer after cleaning, which helps keep the glass clean and water-spot free during future washing, and allows rain to bead up and roll off during storms, so you don’t suffer as much of a visibility hit.

How to Clean Car Windows – Step 3: Using the Right Applicator

Always use a lint-free towel or microfiber cloth when cleaning your car’s windows. Trust me, it helps! Another trick is to use vertical motions on the exterior glass, and horizontal motions on the interior glass. That way, if you get streaks, you know which side they’re on, making it easier to get rid of them! Also, be sure to mist the cleaner on the cloth itself, rather than directly on the window. This helps prevent over-spray from getting where it’s not needed, like on your paint or interior plastics, leather, etc. If you have a windshield or rear window with especially hard to reach areas, consider investing in a glass cleaning tool like the one shown below!

How to Clean Car Windows – Step 4: Final Detailing

If you have small scratches or stubborn water spots on your glass, consider using a glass restorer like the one shown below in combination with an orbital polisher to remove them! This stuff works like a buffing compound, but is formulated specifically for automotive glass! It removes haziness, swirling, light scratches, and other imperfections to restore perfect clarity to your windshield and other windows.

How to Clean Car Tires

If your tires are looking a bit grungy, read on and learn how to clean car tires the best way possible! This is a method used by several professional detailers I know, and it will leave your tires looking clean and black every time!

Step 1: Use a good cleaner!

If you want to clean your car tires and end up with a great result every time, it may seem obvious that you’ll need to use something to clean them. A solid cleaning product really makes your job easier here, so don’t skimp! I’ve tried everything from soap to simple green and specialty tire cleaners, and what I’ve found to work the best all-around is BlackFire Total Eclipse Tire & Wheel Cleaner.

At around $1 per ounce, it’s a bit spendy, but the results are worth the investment! Best of all, it is 100% water-based and free of the acids and other chemicals found in the tire cleaners you’d typically find at your local AutoZone, Checker, or other auto parts store. Even if you aren’t on the “green” bandwagon, these chemicals can actually harm your tires and wheels over time. Just don’t do it! Spray whatever cleaner you end up using on your tires liberally, wait a minute or two, and move on to step 2!

Step 2: Scrub man, scrub!

Sure, many cleaners say to just spray on and rinse, but trust me, if you’re learning How to Clean Car Tires, you’re gonna want to get out your scrub brush and go to town! The results you’ll get if you do are many times better than if you’d just rinsed the cleaner off after letting it sit for a few minutes. I suggest using a specialty tire brish, as the curves in the brush conform to the sidewalls of most tires and make the job easier, but realistically you can use just about anything. An old toothbrush, a dish scrub brush, a broom, whatever’s around!

Step 3: Rinse & Dry!

OK, you probably knew this was coming next, but hey, if I didn’t mention it someone would probably point it out eventually. Spray your tires down with clean water, making sure all of the cleaner foam, brake dust, and whatever else gets completely rinsed away!

When that’s done, grab a microfiber towel, lint-free cloth, or air nozzle, and dry your nice, clean tires off! Make sure you get all the cracks and crevices as dry as you possibly can, because any remaining water droplets will play hell with our next step.

Step 4: Tire Dressing

The final step to cleaning your car tires is dressing, which will make those tires extra-black, and possibly shiny depending on the product & application methods you use. You can use the basic ArmorAll or HotShine tire spray if that’s your thing, but personally I hate the oily slime they leave behind. My personal favorite tire dressing is the ArmorAll Outlast tire dressing, which comes in an aerosol can. You’ll most likely want to mask off your wheels if you plan on using the stuff, because it’s sort of like a spray-on rubber coating. Trust me, if you get any over-spray on your wheels, it’s a royal PITA to get it back off again. Whatever product you end up using, just follow the directions on the bottle or can and make sure to get a nice, even coating over the entire side of the tire. Avoid the tread areas, and your wheels as much as possible.

This guide will teach you How to Paint Plastic Interior Parts properly! If you want to customize your car or truck, this is a great way to start. If you have mismatched plastics from junkyard replacements or whatever, Painting Plastic Interior Parts is a great way to remedy that as well!

A Word on Paint

If you’re somewhat skeptical about painting plastic interior parts, it’s probably because you’ve seen a lot of failed attempts. A lot of those failed attempts are due to either rushing the job, or using paint that wasn’t up to the task. If you’re trying to keep the factory textured look to your plastics, I suggest using SEM Flexible Coatings. Specifically, SEM Sand-free primer, and the SEM paint color of your choice. If you want a smoothed, high-gloss finish to your plastics, I suggest using automotive grade paint. Not the stuff you buy at Home Depot or Auto Zone, but the stuff from an automotive paint supplier. Trust me, it will make a world of difference when you Paint Plastic Interior Parts.

Step 1: Removal

Remove the parts you want to paint from the car, and find a suitable place to paint them. You’ll most likely want to raise your parts off of the ground, so a workbench or table covered in painter’s plastic works well for smaller parts and trim pieces. For large parts like dashes and door panels, you may have to get creative with a couple sawhorses, cardboard boxes, or whatever you can manage. It will be awhile before you actually spray any paint, but it helps to get things ready beforehand.

Step 2: Cleaning

The first thing you’ll want to do is some serious cleaning. Interior parts are most likely going to have years worth of ArmorAll and other oily, waxy dressings all over them. If you want to have a snowball’s chance of your paint job turning out well, don’t rush this step! Scrub your parts down withsoap and water. Dish soap should work well, but if you’re not on a shoestring budget, SEM 39362 Soap – 15 oz. is specifically for this task. No matter which soap you use, make sure to rinse everything off thoroughly when you’re done. If the part still looks or feels dirty, go over it with soap another time or two. If you want to go the extra mile and be SURE those parts are clean enough for paint, I suggest using SEM 38353 Plastic Prep – 12 oz.. It’s a plastic cleaner made specifically for pre-paint cleaning.

Step 3: Deciding on Finish

From here there will be 2 separate paths. One path for the guys who want to keep the factory ‘textured’ look to their plastics, and one path for the guys who want their interior as smooth and shiny as their exterior paint. If you’re in the “factory look” camp, read on! If you’re in the “smooth and shiny” camp, skip down to that section!

Factory “Textured” Look

So you’ve decided to keep a factory “textured” look to your interior. Cool! The good news is, you don’t have to do any sanding! The bad news is you’ll need a Sand-Free Adhesion Promoter to get your paint to stick effectively. Once the parts you want to paint are clean and dry, shoot them with the can of sand-free making sure to start the spray off of the part, and move across it one section at a time. Make sure the end of your spray is off of the part. So, for example, start your spray off to the left of your part, move your can to the right across your part, and end your spray to the right of your part. Keep bursting your way through it untill you’ve covered the whole part, making sure you got all of the cracks and crevices. Once you’ve got that covered, switch to your color of choice and shoot that over top of the still-wet adhesion promoter (assuming you’re using SEM). If not, follow the directions on the can(s) you are actually using.

Custom “Smooth and Shiny” Look

So you’ve decided to impart some custom style to your ride? Great! The good news is, you’ll have a pretty unique interior when it’s all said and done. The bad news is, it’s gonna be quite a bit of work. But hey, if it was easy everyone would do it, right?

Step 4: Sanding

Yep, you’re gonna be doing a lot of sanding. Hopefully you have a small power sander handy, since they can be a real time saver in this step. Start off with a sand paper grit around 200 and sand down any texture, lettering, etc. on the interior pieces you intend to paint. You’ll want to sand across (perpendicular to) any major curves in the pieces, because if you sand with (follow) them, you risk flattening out the profile, which will probably be noticeable. Once most of the texture and whatever else is gone, switch to a finer grit like 400, and keep the part (and your sandpaper) wet while sanding. The goal here is to both finish removing the texture, and also remove the marks left by your 200 grit. Once that’s done, move on!

Step 5: Primer

Primer is what we will use to fill in some uneven spots, sanding marks, and whatever else is left at this point so our color coat will come out smooth and mirror-like. Note: Whenever you’re spraying anything, make sure you begin and end your passes off of the part, or else you’ll end up with runs galore. First, shoot everything with a plastic adhesion promoter. This will make sure that the primer fully bonds with the plastic. After that, spray on a light coat of filler primer or high build primer. This is what fills in those sanding marks and whatnot. Wait 24 hours (or however long is recommended on your can of primer) and spray another light coat on. If everything is even and uniform at this point, move on! If not, keep reading. If you get runs in the primer or stippling, you will have to wait till the primer dries, and wet-sand those specific spots down with some 600 grit. Be careful not to sand all the way through the primer if you end up doing this. Once that sanding is done, spray a new light layer of primer over everything and pat yourself on the back.

Step 6: Color

Now it’s time to spray on your color. Remember the note in the last step? Good! Start spraying that sucker (or those suckers) with your color of choice. Make sure you get a good, solid coat without any big runs or high spots.

Step 7: Clear

Clear Coat is what will protect your base color from chips and wear in general. Just like with your color, your goal is to get a good, solid layer of clear down with as few runs or high spots as possible. If you get some at this point, don’t stress out about it. We’ll fix those next. Wait 24 hours (or however long the can recommends) and spray another layer.

Step 8: Color Sanding

If your clear coat is less than perfect, you’ll be doing what is known as color sanding. Basically, it’s a process of removing any and all imperfections so you’re left with a mirror-like shine. Your clear coat will need to be TOTALLY dry before proceeding. Get a bucket of water and add 1 drop of dish soap to it. Now get some 600 grit sandpaper and a sanding pad. Wet your sandpaper and LIGHTLY sand your clear coat, making sure to re-wet your sandpaper as often as is needed. You’ll want to use no pressure here, just let the sand paper do the work and DO NOT sand all the way through the clear coat. After sanding an area, wipe it down with a clean, dry towel to check for high spots. Use an air nozzle to help dry if necessary. After the surface is dry, if you have high spots, which show as the dull areas and low spots which show as the darker or unsanded areas, this is what they’ll look like. Once the imperfections in your clearcoat are pretty much gone and everything is pretty close to even, jump up to 2000 grit and sand with that untill you’ve removed the marks from the 600 grit and evened everything up. Once you’re left with just 2000 grit marks, buff that sucker out by hand to remove those, and congratulate yourself on a job well done! Now you know How to Paint Plastic Interior Parts, and you can share with your friends!

Have tips of your own for paint plastic interior parts? Feel free to share ’em below!

Most of you already know that link building is an important step of any SEO campaign. With any luck, these SEO Link Building Tips will help you get more out of your efforts! The SEO game has changed a lot over the last couple of years, and the tools of the trade have changed just as much! No matter what, though, link building will always play it’s part in getting ranked for any keyword.

Link building has changed, too. A few years ago, one could easily buy their way to the top of the search results. Black or Gray-Hat link building was an easy way to do just as well on a smaller budget. These days, building links isn’t nearly as fast or as easy as it was then, and a lot more weight is placed on link quality over quantity. There are still many white hat SEO techniques you can start using right now, without much effort or expense.

Ask for Backlinks!

Contact your friends, family, co-workers, and anyone else you can think of and simply ask them to link to you. Be sure to ask for in-content links rather than links in the sidebar, footer, or blogroll. Be careful to ensure that the links are coming from content-relevant websites, though. Links from completely unrelated websites will not help, and may even hurt your rankings.

Tap Social Media

Social Media backlinks are gaining more and more weight with google, and social media link building may soon eclipse all other link building strategies. Reddit and StumbleUpon take just a few seconds to submit to, and reddit in particular is a potential gold mine if your link takes off! Creating a Facebook page for your brand or product is another solid option, because pretty much everyone spends time browsing through it’s pages these days.

Build Relationships

Forums, Blogs, and Social Groups related to your niche are a great way to make friends, and get a few extra back links out there! Make the first step and start contributing good, relevant content to these communities. Begin with the focus of simply building the community itself, and it will pay off. By actively participating in these groups, you’ll meet new people, gain some backlinks, and most likely stay up-to-date with industry news and events while you’re at it!

Give Testimonials

If you’ve used a product or service, and had positive thoughts about it, offer to write a testimonial for their website! These requests typically pay off at a higher rate than just emailing and asking for a backlink, because your testimonial helps the brand in question build customer trust, and your link’s presence within that testimonial gives you a valuable backlink, as well as some extra traffic.

Get Listed in Trusted Web Directories

The days of submitting your link to every directory under the sun are gone. There are too many opportunities to damage your site’s google reputation by doing so. Instead, submit only to trusted web directories like DMOZ. DMOZ is the largest, most comprehensive human-edited directory of the Web. It is constructed and maintained by a vast, global community of volunteer editors. It also carries a lot of weight with search engines, as they have a solid reputation built upon years of work.

Research the Competition

I suggested a similar tactic in my keyword research tips post. This time, it’s a little different though. You’ll be scoping out your competitors’ backlinks! The Common Backlinks Tool from is designed specifically for this purpose. Just enter up to 10 competitors and run the report, and you’ll be able to see where they  have common backlinks, and discover their techniques and sources.

Get SEMRush

If you’ve never used SEMRush, it’s time to start! They have a free option available, as well as a pro option should you need something a little more robust. I can’t stress enough how much SEMRush helps with keyword research, which will help make targeting those links a lot easier!

Share Your Link Building Tips!

Remember what I said about contributing to a community earlier? Feel free to share your own Link Building Tips below, and give yourself a pat on the back-link!

TO some, SEO and Keyword Research sound like some sort of voodoo. While it may seem that way at the start, once you begin to get the hang of things, it all comes together and starts making sense! Hopefully, these SEO Keyword Research Tips will help you shed some light on things!

Let your competitors do the research for you!

Sounds easy, right? you can use Anchor Text Analysis tools like this one, as well as the Google AdWords keyword tool and SEMRush to spy on what your competition is doing, then simply rinse and repeat! Ok, ok, I’ll admit it might sound a little shady, but it’s a proven tactic! And like the old saying goes, imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.

Here’s how it works: First, make a list of your top 5 competitors. Specifically the ones at the top of the rankings for your targeted search term or niche.

For this example, I’ll use “SEO Keyword Research Tips” as my search term.

My competition?


Change your language and location demographics based on your targeted audience. Choose Global and English if you are targeting a worldwide audience.

Under Keyword Options, choose ‘Only Keywords Closely Related to my Search’ to keep things neat and closely targeted, and voila! You’re working your way towards some usable keywords to begin targeting. You’ll immediately be able to see the search volume and competition for the keywords, so go ahead and pick one that you feel will work for your niche, and pick a few more that are closely related to the first one. Grouped together, you have a tightly themed set of keywords just begging for some marketing!

Blog on Breaking News, Upcoming Events, Product Launches, etc.

Getting ranked on a topic before anybody else gives you a head start, making it easier to stay at the top of the pack! Best of all, this can be combined with the other SEO Keyword Research Tips to form a very effective strategy to land you at the top of the search results!

If you know something is not being searched much today, but will be heavily searched in the future (next year’s black friday, for example), you can get content out and get those rankings up well in advance of your competition! Basically, these strategy relies on anticipating keywords that will be highly searched in the future. These keywords will be easier to rank for since you’ll have little to no initial competition.

Add Geo-Targeted keywords to your list

If you want to rank for “Auto Repair” for example, that could take months or years due to the competition level. Start with Auto Repair in Mesa AZ, and/or Auto Repair Arizona, and your list of competitors just got much smaller, and easier to rank for. Best of all, you’ll still be relevant to your original goal! These geo-targeted keywords might have less overall search volume, but they are highly targeted and typically offer higher conversion rates.

Check your Google Analytics or Google Webmaster Tools data

Don’t forget to research your own site and see how your users are finding you! Google Analytics, Google Webmaster Tools, Bing Webmaster Tools, and other similar systems can be a valuable place to find those long-tail keywords you may have missed!


In the above example, you’ll notice a few keywords not really related to our original “auto repair” goal, but some of them may still be useful for traffic generating purposes. This is a prime example of something that may have gone otherwise unnoticed!

Do you have any Keyword Research tips you’d like to share? Feel free to chime in below!

This Kobalt Tools Review will focus on the Mechanic’s Screwdrivers. These screwdrivers (shown in the picture) have a blue acetate polymer hard handles, and are quite a bit heavier (and assumably tougher) than your standard screwdriver handle. Each screwdriver handle, with the exception of the stubby screwdrivers, has a steel pommel cap. The shanks, once again excluding the stubby screwdrivers, feature a hexagonal bolster allowing you to use a wrench for extra torque if necessary. The tips of all of the screwdrivers are coated with a black phosphate finish for increased grip on the screw head, and by extension, less wear to the tips and less rounded off fasteners.

Kobalt Mechanics ScrewdriversKobalt Screwdriver Cap Kobalt Screwdriver Shank Kobalt Screwdriver Tip

The best part? These new screwdrivers are made in the USA! That’s right, they are made right here in the United States by Great Neck Saw Manufacturers, Inc.  of Mineola, NY.

Lowes is offering these new drivers in a few individual sizes, and there’s also a new 5-piece set that comes with two Phillips, two slotted, and one mini offset screwdrivers. The rest shown in the picture are available in singular packaging.

Note that some readers have reported seeing 5-piece sets labeled Made in China, while individual screwdrivers are still labeled Made in USA. This may mean that the offset screwdriver (unique to the set) is made in China. Alternatively, it could mean something else entirely! I honestly don’t know, but if you’re in the market for new screwdrivers, I wouldn’t let this observation dissuade you too much.

In this review, we will be comparing Kobalt Tools sockets from Lowes to Pittsburgh sockets from Harbor Freight. Both samples were purchased new in 2015.

Kobalt Vs Pittsburgh Kobalt Vs Pittsburgh

First Impressions

Both sockets are of chrome plated steel construction, and 6 point 3/8in drive design. The sockets are in a similar size range, as the Kobalt is an 18mm and the Pittsburgh socket is a 11/16. They both seem to be of reasonably high finish quality, with the Kobalt winning out very slightly in the chrome plating (fewer imperfections), though neither socket had many to speak of.

The Kobalt Socket

The Kobalt socket, as you may notice has a laser-engraved size marking near the top of the socket, and a blue acrylic band near the bottom designating it as a metric socket.

Kobalt Socket Front Kobalt Socket Top 2 Kobalt Socket Top Kobalt Socket Bottom

The Pittsburgh Socket

The Pittsburgh socket is roll stamped with it’s size marking, but offers no color or other markings to distinguish SAE and Metric sockets.

Pittsburgh Socket FrontPittsburgh Socket Top 2Pittsburgh Socket TopPittsburgh Socket Bottom


I have had a chance to put both the Kobalt sockets, and Pittsburgh sockets through some light to medium duty use, and both seem to be pretty well up to the task mechanically. Neither socket has rounded any fasteners or showed any sines of failure. Not even so much as a little chrome flaking. In the event that anything changes, I’ll be sure to update this review. For now, I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend either brand of socket for DIY work!


I am writing this Williams WRS-1 Magnetic Ratcheting Screwdriver Review based upon this one I got as a gift on Christmas of 2014. I have had many chances to put it through it’s paces since then working on my ’03 Suzuki Katana and ’97 GMC K1500, and I feel I am now able to publish a comprehensive review.

First off, there is no comparison between this Ratcheting Screwdriver and the ones commonly found in cheap sets at big box stores. The screwdriver comes with 5 bits; 2 slotted, 2 Phillips, and 1 Torx. They are stored in the handle, and have a Snap-On “S” logo. Yes, they are Snap-On Bits. For those who are not aware, the Williams Tool Company is a division of Snap-On. Williams is their industrial tool line, and the quality is on par with Snap-On at a fraction of the price.

Williams WRS-1 Magnetic Ratcheting Screwdriver Review 1 Williams WRS-1 Magnetic Ratcheting Screwdriver Review 2 Williams WRS-1 Magnetic Ratcheting Screwdriver Review 3 Williams WRS-1 Magnetic Ratcheting Screwdriver Review 4 Williams WRS-1 Magnetic Ratcheting Screwdriver Review 5
















The ratcheting action on this screwdriver is smooth in both directions, and the middle “lock” setting is strong, never slipping even under large amounts of torque. The stainless steel shank is satin finished, and is not likely to ever wear out. Since it is solid stainless and not chrome plated, it is not prone to chipping, flaking, or other aesthetic issues even under heavy use.

All in all, if you are considering buying your first ratcheting screwdriver, or you are currently using a cheapie bought at a big box store, I say pick up one of these today! You won’t regret it!

Today I am writing this Vessel Megadora 980 Impacta review, after a week of ownership and use. First off, I’d just like to say that having a JIS Screwdriver period is a godsend if you work on Japanese cars or motorcycles. This particular JIS screwdriver / Impact Tool, however, is doubly awesome. So far I’ve used it to de-winterize my ’03 Suzuki Katana, and there wasn’t a single screw on the bike it couldn’t handle. The screwdriver itself is of high quality, the impact portion of the tool works very well, the finish work is neat. Overall, it is well worth the asking price (I paid $22 after tax and shipping when I bought mine).

Vessel Megadora 980 Impacta Review 1 Vessel Megadora 980 Impacta Review 2 Vessel Megadora 980 Impacta Review 3 Vessel Megadora 980 Impacta Review 4










The impact feature is amazing when it comes to breaking loose rusted, oxidized, or otherwise stuck screws, and when you’re not using it as an impact driver, it works well as just a standard screwdriver. This saves time, as you don’t have to get out your standard hand impact tool and bits, as well as a normal screwdriver. the Vessel Megadora 980 Impacta does both, in one handy package!